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May 1, 2012

Hungarian Shortbread with Quince Jam

I think this is going to be a hugely popular post. Today´s recipe from Baking with Julia, for our TWD group is Hungarian Shortbread, an extra-good, filled shortbread, by contributing baker and pastry chef Gale Gand.
This time our hosts are the ever popular Cher, of CrazyWorldofCher and Lynette, of 1smallkitchen. The full recipe is posted in their sites.
Again I have to improvise, this time with the filling. When I need to make changes because the season here is not the right one for the ingredient, I try to use something similar.
Now, I have a bigger problem than to substitute rhubarb, because I have absolutely no idea what it tastes like. Have never, ever tried it in a pie or crumble or whatever. I have seen it a few times at the market, but it´s not really known here. So, I decided that it should be something not very sweet or juicy per se, since I assumed the rhubarb would have some kind of tartness to counter-balance the sweet dough.

I settled on quince. They are the new fruit in season right now and they´re so hard to work with sometimes, that it will prove a challenge. And I will get them off my mind once and for all; I made quince paste once, many years ago, and let me tell you the state of my poor hands after peeling them raw made me want to run to my room and cry. I swore never to peel another one ever again, especially since this country has commercially good quince paste sold everywhere. But new recipes emerged and I became curious again. I wanted revenge, hell, my hands wanted revenge. So here we are, with a lovely, and a bit chunky quince jam, hand-made especially for you. I added a few tablespoons of pomegranate syrup at the last minute, so that I would have a brighter color. It turned out it brought out the flavor of the quince as well.
The technique for softening this stone fruit (such a well deserved name) is found in a great book I just bought. This master French chef has written two other books, and of course I own all three of them. They´re simply my new favorites for base recipes and techniques. Leave it to the French to do it right, right?
This shortbread recipe has been bookmarked since the beginning. The picture in the book is mouthwatering and it looks like something easy to do and crowd pleasing.
Both things are right. The dough is a regular shortbread mixture of softened butter, sugar and flour with the addition of egg yolks. The interesting part is that the dough is first freezed and then grated onto the prepared pan, then the jam filling is sandwiched between two layers of this raw shortbread grated mess before baking. I guess that´s the secret to it being so moist and almost fluffy. Here you kill two birds with one shot and have your moist, filled soft cookie square as soon as you are able to bite into it. Which in my case was while still warm. Delicious.
If you use a store-bought, good quality jam this is as easy as a crumble. After all, it is almost a double-crusted fruit crumble; it surely tastes like one.

QUINCE JAM
from Desserts, by Michel Roux and other sources

4 quince
¼  cup sugar
½  cup water
3 Tbs pomegranate syrup (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375ºF / 190ºC.
Prick each quince on 4 or 5 different places with a fork, wrap in foil and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 1 to 1 ¼ hours or until tender, turning 3 or 4 times during cooking. To test, insert a skewer into the flesh; it should go in easily. Unwrap the quince and set aside to cool.
When cool, with a small knife, peel, halve and core the quince, then cut the flesh into small dice.
Place in a medium saucepan together with the sugar and water. Over low heat cook, stirring often so it doesn´t stick to the bottom of the pan, until you have a paste and the color deepens. Add the pomegranate syrup if using.
Let cool completely and store in the refrigerator.


 

Ready to use, after the pomegranate syrup was added
 

26 comments:

  1. Your bars look yummmmy! I don't think I have ever had anything with quince though I have read about it many times. Something I would love to try!

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    Replies
    1. It´s a different flavor, with the texture of pear puree

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  2. Just perfect, Paula. Your Quince version looks amazing.

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  3. Paula, you are certainly right about those quinces - they are very hard to work with. But since I have your recipe now (Michel Roux does have wonderful recipes in his books), I will try that instead. Quinces will hit the markets here only in early fall but rhubarb is widely available here right now. The tast is somewhat tart and pairs well with strawberries. I love how people work with the recipes in different countries! I enjoyed your photos and your post! Great job!

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  4. Delicious Shortbread!
    Your quince jam looks so yummy! I know rhubarb well, but never made a quince jam :-)

    I've made some little changes to save on fat and Kcal and was still delicious!
    Greetings from Switzerland.

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  5. Oh, the quince look lovely. I worked with quince for the first time this past winter (and made membrillo) - it was a pain but it sure was tasty. Growing up, my parents always had a patch of rhubarb behind their barn, so I think I have always taken it for granted (But it never seems to be in season when I crave that sour-tartness)

    Great job! Thanks for baking along this month.

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  6. These look perfect!! I have no idea what quince is either but I'm impressed you thought that much about the best substitution, I just went with apples without really thinking more hahaha

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    1. You were tired! I´m surprised you don´t know about dulce de membrillo.. thought it was very used in Spain

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    2. I had to look it up on the translater to find out it was membrillo...! Such a different name!!!

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  7. they look delicious! never had quince before. Well done on making your own jam!

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    1. I had to, after my failed attempt years ago!

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  8. Wow! You really went the extra mile! I've never used quince and need to try it sometime. I'm also not familiar with Michel Roux and need to check him out.

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    Replies
    1. M. Roux is a great chef, from the old guard, that wrote these little books that are filled with amazing recipes!

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  9. I bet it was nice with the quince! :) You should try it with some cheese, that combo is very popular here in England!

    Alice @ http://acookingmizer.wordpress.com

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  10. I haven’t had quince jam in years…my mom used to make it! We had a quince tree in our yard! Your bars look delectable…great job!

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  11. Your bars look delicious with that golden jam inside. I'm impressed that you made your own jam especially since working w/ that particular fruit gave you so much trouble. I know the feeling of wanting to tackle something that is difficult though, to overcome it. I'm guessing it went better this time w/ the quince? I've never had quince, but now am anxious to try some after reading your post.

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  12. Hi Paula,

    You left a comment on my blog and I saw your name, but you didn't leave your blog link. So, I didn't know who wrote. Then you left a message on LYL (which, by the way, you may not want to do - it's just for links, not commenting). Not acting prudish. Just helping you out my friend. :D

    Great post! You have a great writing style. Yes, I agree with you, the French do pastry right. (SMILES)

    I've never had rhubarb or quince. One of these days, I will try making this again using these filling.

    Your photos are mouth-watering...

    ~ Carmen
    http://bakingismyzen.wordpress.com/2012/05/01/twd-baking-with-julia-hungarian-shortbread-with-homemade-strawberry-jam/

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  13. I love the idea, and I think that quince is a very good substitute for rhubarb as it is something like strawberry but much less sweeter! It is good in tartlets though!
    My family loves quince so I think I will try your recipe!!!

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  14. I love quince jam, I am sure your shortbread tasted delicious with it.. I wish I could find quince here so I could try your jam recipe..

    I am from Turkey and I hadn't tasted rhubarb before I moved to Canada, I like the tangy sweet flavor that it gives to desserts..

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  15. I've never had quince jam! It looks so good! Quince paste with camembert and crackers is as close as I've come to any form of quince!

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    1. Quince paste and queso fresco (a soft white latin american cheese) is probable one of the oldest desserts in this country. It is so good!

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  16. You made a good call on the quince substitution. Rhubarb is especially tart. Being in the opposite hemisphere presents a challenge when the recipe is "seasonal" for most. You're a real sport to make it work for what's available to you.

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  17. It is a challenge but I really enjoy them. Thanks for stopping by!

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