My second trip to Europe was my first culinary
experience. I was married at the time, to a guy who knew how to enjoy
food. I had been across the atlantic once before, but on a tight budget and
just for a week, so this was completely different.
We made a road trip through
a few countries that lasted almost a month, and I recall vividly, even
after more than fifteen years, that first bite of unknown flavors and the
realization of how extraordinary they were. That first surprise sensation that
goes right into the archives of your brain. A salad with soft goat cheese, a
ham and cheese filled focaccia, little sandwiches made with bresaola, a warm
fig and pastry cream tart. They came unexpectedly, in places that we hadn´t
even planned to go.
A few weeks ago, I read Bourdain´s popular Kitchen
Confidential. His description of first tasting a cold soup or an oyster is
perfect, those defining moments that forever change your palate. Or maybe they
trigger it.I found figs in the market today. Very unusual, since I tend to buy them in December and January; I guess they are probably imported. Who cares really.
I find fresh figs a bit of a mystery, since they don´t pack much flavor raw, unless you have the tree and catch them at the perfect moment when they are ripe and juicy, which in itself is another culinary experience, but they are transformed when cooked or baked or candied. Quite similar to eggplant. The intense and earthy sweetness that develops from their own sugars is quite a thing to look forward to every year.
Since I never forgot that fig tart I had in Genova, just out of the oven, dusted with powdered sugar and eaten late at night, after driving for a few hours, the minute I saw fresh figs I had to make something similar, at least to stop thinking about it.
It is a dessert
that I don´t see much, even a bit outdated, but every part works so
well. A good sweet crust, homemade pastry cream, which let´s face it, is
something everyone should try at least once just to be able to taste that
heavenly custard directly from the wooden spoon and realize what they´re
missing, and fresh figs that caramelize a bit and deepen their flavor.
And then it has to be eaten warm. The first bite at least. Or at room temperature, but never cold. All the magic will be gone then.
And then it has to be eaten warm. The first bite at least. Or at room temperature, but never cold. All the magic will be gone then.
FRESH
FIG TART
Note: I
don´t specify amounts since this can be made in any shape you want. To make the
tart shown in the pictures I used about ½ recipe of each sweet dough and pastry
cream, 6 figs cut in half and 3 tablespoons sugar before baking it. If your
pastry cream is cold, beat it a bit before filling the tart so you have a
smooth cream.
Ingredients
For the fig
tart:
Sweet tart dough
Pastry cream
Fresh figs
Sugar
Confectioner´s sugar, to serve
For the
sweet tart dough:
1 cup + 1 Tbs (125g) confectioners´ sugar
1 ¾ cups (255g) all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
9 Tbs (125g) unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg
For the
pastry cream:
2 cups (490g) whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup (100g) sugar
1/3 cup (40g) cornstarch, sifted
6 large egg yolks
2 Tbs (30g) unsalted butter
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| About to go into the oven |
Directions
For the sweet tart dough:
Sift together sugar, flour and salt.
Place butter in a food processor and process until
smooth, about 15 seconds. Scatter the flour mixture over the butter, add the
egg, and process just until the dough forms a mass; do not over mix. Turn the
dough out onto the counter and divide it in two. Shape each half into a disc,
wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
The dough may be well wrapped and frozen for up to 1
month.
Let the dough stand at room tº a bit to soften before
rolling on a lightly floured work surface.
For the pastry cream:
Line a shallow baking pan or bowl with plastic wrap.
Put the milk in a medium saucepan, scrape the seeds
from the vanilla bean into the pan, and add the bean. Bring to a boil and
remove from the heat.
Whisk together the sugar and cornstarch in a small
bowl. Place the yolks in a medium bowl; whisk in the sugar mixture and whisk
until it turns pale yellow and is thick and smooth. Gradually pour half of the
hot milk into the yolk mixture and whisk to combine.
Return this mixture to the saucepan with the rest of
the milk and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture
thickens and comes to a boil. Boil for several seconds, then remove the pan
from the heat and whisk in the butter until completely melted. If using vanilla
extract add it at this point.
Scrape the pastry cream into the prepared pan,
spreading evenly with a spatula. Cover the cream with plastic wrap, placing it
directly against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
needed, up to 3 days. Remove vanilla bean before using.
To assemble the tart:
Line the pie plate of your choice with the sweet tart
dough. Refrigerate it for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350º F /180ºC.
Line the pan with aluminum foil and fill with dried
beans or pie weights. Prebake for 15 minutes, remove the foil and bake for
another 5 minutes, until the dough is no longer shiny.
Fill with pastry cream, arrange fig halves on top,
sprinkle with sugar and bake for 30 minutes, until the figs soften and start to
release their juices.
Let cool a bit on a wire rack. Unmold, sprinkle with
confectioners´ sugar and serve.





A mi madre le volvería loca esta receta!!!
ReplyDeleteNo me asombra, porque es de las tartas que antes se hacian mucho!
DeleteI would love to be able to get fresh figs, but we do not have them where I live. The only places I have ever tried them have been out of my country! You are lucky!
ReplyDeleteI totally understand about those defining moments in one's gastronomic life...I vould relate to that same passage by Anthony Bourdain! For me sushi and foie gras (had a different times) where the two foods with which I experienced that same sort of "food epiphany" :)
I realize I should stop complaining about the things I can´t get here! And foie gras... you reminded me of the first time I had a starter of seared foie gras, crunchy and creamy..wow!
Delete